Stolen Horses and Scented Garments: Vegetal and Mineral Yellow in Arabic Technical Literature

Mediaeval Arabic technical literature shows a keen interest in yellow dyes, paints, varnishes, inks, and even perfumes. Recipes reveal that yellow was viewed as just one step away from gold, with preparations for these two colours often sharing ingredients and techniques. In the unfolding of procedures and applications to different materials, from skin to textiles, Arabic sources also offer a glimpse into daily life and shared tastes, presenting luxury objects along with their imitations. This paper traces the role played by yellow and gold in inks, cosmetic dyes, and coloured, scented fabrics, exploring the textual dimension of these recipes, their technical features, and their social role between the court and the street. It also presents translations of several important recipes for yellow and gold dyes, which illustrate their diversity of applications, while also addressing such material problems as durability and substitution.